While the Stockholm Archipelago seems practically infinite, it actually consists of "only" 24,000 islands, islets and rocks you can choose to explore. Close to the mainland, the islands are larger and more lush, the bays and channels wider, and the year-round residents more numerous. But as you go further out toward the sea, the scenery becomes more rugged. Finally, you come to the outer reaches - where sea and land meet, in a place of tiny islets and windblown, low vegetation.

The summer archipelago is filled with sailboats, since once one has sailed its water, one returns again and again. Many Stockholm families sail their own boats, but visitors, too, can experience the archipelago. Just come along on one of the many white steamboats which have connected the larger islands for over a century.

The archipelago is closer than you think

If you don�t have much time, but want to experience something of the famous archipelago, the Fjäderholm Islands may provide the solution. A half hour�s boat ride from Stockholm will bring you to the closest islands of the archipelago, and put you far away from the big city pulse. These islands have provided night lodging for mariners on their way to or from Stockholm. Today, they offer handicraft workshops, a smoke-house, a summer stock theatre, the Baltic Aquarium and Fjäderholmarnas Krog, a top-rated restaurant with European Master Chef.

Another hour or so by archipelago boat will bring you to Grinda. This is the place for all kinds of sports and exercise, from a leisurely walk in the woods, a swim among the rocks or a game of boule to ocean kayak trips, mountain-bike races and mountain climbing. Grinda Wärdshus, an art nouveau inn from the turn of the century, provides another example of fine dining in the archipelago and you can even spend the night there.

The towns and forts of the archipelago

On your way to Grinda, you�ll pass through Vaxholm, a little, vibrant town of wooden houses, and lots of summer visitors. Sailboat enthusiasts stop here before their extended cruises, ostensibly for supplies, but just as much to look at the handicraft studios, art galleries, and perhaps, to have a meal at Hotel Waxholm, with its magnificent harbour view. If you have a little more time, visit Waxholm Castle. Of course, the castle isn�t the only defence installation in the archipelago. The entrance to Stockholm has always been guarded in various ways, and at various locations. In fact, there is an entire underground base on the island of Siarö in the northern archipelago, used for decades by hundreds of soldiers, and unnoticed by the rest of the world. When the Swedish armed forces moved out, a museum occupied the underground caverns and tunnels. Vaxholm is a perfect day-trip destination. During the summer months, boats leave from Stockholm virtually every hour.

In Sandhamn, furthest out to sea, pilots meet large ships and guide them to Stockholm through all the rocks and shoals. Sandhamn is also a yachtsman�s paradise. This is the point of origin for many great sailboat races, such as the �Around Gotland,� and the island is a meeting place for hundred of thousands pleasure boaters who stop at the harbour for supplies, or a visit to the Inn or Sailor�s Restaurant. In the summer, boats are �triple-parked� at the piers. Don�t worry if you don�t have your own boat; you can still take an unforgettable three hour steamboat ride through the whole archipelago.

The residents of the archipelago have not all been fishermen and farmers. On Utö, in the southern archipelago, the iron mine was the principal employer for several centuries. About a hundred years ago, the island became a famous holiday resort for Stockholmers, and today, the Mining Museum, inn, family hotel, youth and family hostel and the bicycle, kayak and Icelandic horse rental are good sources of income for the approximately 250 year-round residents of the island.

Holiday in the archipelago

If you don�t want to return to the city as soon as it begins to get dark, you can spend the night in the archipelago. But reserve your room in plenty of time, since staying in the archipelago is popular. You can choose among hotels, family hotels, private rental cottages, and youth and family hostels (high standard). Many are located in various historically or culturally interesting buildings, so you can sleep in a Victorian style home, or in what once was a quarantine station. Bed and Breakfast is a more personal alternative, since you get to stay with a local family. Some places offer their guests cooking facilities, and almost everywhere, a genuine Swedish breakfast is included. The Excursion Shop at Sweden House can help you book accommodations at hotels, cottages and youth and family hostels. If you contact them in advance, they will send you the Bed & Breakfast Catalogue, with pictures and descriptions of each place.

Unlimited travel among islands and islets

Buy a "båtluffarkort"(Inter�skerries cards) - a ticket that entitles you to unlimited boat travels for sixteen days with "Waxholmsbolaget", that traffic the whole archipelago from Singö in the north to Nynäshamn in the south. You can use the ticket for day-trips from Stockholm, or more extensive excursions, spending a night or two at camping sites, youth and family hostels or hotels. You can purchase your Inter-skerries card at the Sweden House, which has more information, as well, about finding your way in the Stockholm archipelago.

Inter�Skerries Card

Price: SEK 250 (summer 1997)

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