Stockholm for gourmetsRaw materials
of top quality, a high ambition level, and a good sense of curiosity are some of the
ingredients in recent years extraordinary development in the Swedish restaurant
world. Stockholm is estimated to have gained a natural position among the gourmet nations
of Europe.
Swedish chefs have won one international contest after the other. In 1997 the young
Swedish chef Mathias Dahlgren won the world championships of fine cuisine - Le Bocuse
dOr - in Lyon. Two years ago another Swede won the European championship in
Bordeaux. The exclusive association of European chefs - Eurotoques - has just elected a
Swedish chairman and this autumn Eurotoques will hold its annual congress in Stockholm.
"We feel we can conquer the world," states one of the capitals young
talents. "It is just as fantastic as Björn Borg and the Swedish tennis
miracle."
For the last 20-30 years several of Stockholms restaurants have regularly had
stars in the gastronomists bible, the Michelin Guide. Paris is probably the only
city with more restaurants per inhabitant than Stockholm, which now boasts more than 700.
Moreover, there have never before been so many high-quality inns in this Baltic capital,
with its clean water in the canals in the heart of the city. In other words, some of the
best raw materials are just around the corner. The cold seas of Scandinavia produce fish
and shellfish of high quality. One of the secrets behind the new Swedish kitchen is the
exquisite selection of raw materials. The best suppliers are often the smallest - and
closest.
The whole world is their inspiration
"We have around 25 different suppliers," states Danyel Couet, young
master chef at Restaurant Fredsgatan 12 which recently gained a star in the Michelin
Guide. "We have a fisherman who literally lands the catch in our restaurant."
Couet has worked at 3-star restaurants in France and in the USA - the experience he
gained is his inspiration in the Fredsgatan kitchen. His recipe for success is strong,
powerful flavours combined with a unique style.
Many of Stockholms talented young chefs share the experience of travelling and
working all over the world and they are clearly influenced by the Mediterranean, the USA
and Asia.
"Swedes are open to trying out something new such as cuisine from other countries.
But the basis for my cooking is flavours presented in a modern, personal way," states
the Spanish-oriented world champion of cuisine Mathias Dahlgren, owner of the
Catalan-sounding Bon Lloc, where he successfully cultivates "La nueva stila
latina". His hard work last autumn was rewarded with a Michelin star.
Gastronomy in cultural Stockholm
The foundation for the current gastronomic success was laid by an older generation
of master chefs of the 1980s who have served as mentors to the new array of stars.
Inspired by "La nouvelle cuisine" they have developed and refined traditional
Swedish dishes. Ulriksdals Värdshus is the place to enjoy the world-famous Swedish
"smörgåsbord". Another example is the Operakällaren with the finest
restaurant interior in the capital, and with a Michelin star to boot. While Stockholm is
Europes Cultural Capital in 1998 a special Swedish-style cultural menu is offered.
Other Swedish-style restaurants worth visiting are Den Gyldene Freden with its
picturesques interior in Gamla Stan and Nils Emils in the southern part of the city.
Diners can sample Swedish specialities such as herring, salmon, lamb and game, e.g.
reindeer.
The Cultural Capital Year naturally has naturally reserved a special place of honour
for fine cuisine. Under the motto "Every day is a celebration" seven of the
citys best restaurants offer a cultural menu which is renewed every day of the
Cultural Capital Year. Den Gyldene Freden, Grand Hotels Veranda, Sturehof, Leijontornet,
Le Bistrot de Wasahof, Ocean och Prinsen are the names of the restaurants which have a new
menu every day of the week in 1998.
Bon appetit!
Ulriksdals Wärdshus, Ulriksdal,
Tel: +46 8 85 08 16
Den Gyldene Freden, Österlånggatan 51,
Tel: +46 8 10 90 46
Grand Hôtels Veranda, Södra Blasieholmshamne 8,
Tel: +46 8 679 35 00
Sturehof, Stureplan 2,
Tel: +46 8 679 87 50
Leijontornet, Lilla Nygatan 5,
Tel: +46 8 14 23 55
Le bistrot de Wasahof, Dalagatan 46,
Tel: +46 8 32 34 40
Ocean, Norr Mälarstrand 76,
Tel: +46 8 652 40 90
Prinsen, Mäster Samuelsgatan 4,
Tel: +46 8 611 13 31
Restaurants with a Guide Michelin star:
Edsbacka Krog, Sollentunavägen 220,
Tel:+46 8 96 33 00
Bon Lloc, Bergsgatan 33,
Tel: +46 8 650 50 82
Wedholms Fisk, Nybrokajen 17,
Tel: +46 8 611 78 74
Operakällaren, Operahuset, Karl XII:s Torg,
Tel: +46 8 676 58 00
Paul and Norbert, Strandvägen 9,
Tel: +446 8 663 81 83
Fredsgatan 12, Fredsgatan 12,
Tel: +46 8 24 80 52
With over 24,000 islands and skerries, the Stockholm
archipelago stretches like a string of pearls along 200 km of the Baltic coast. While the
nearest islands are just a 30-minute boat trip from the city centre, others at the very
edge of the archipelago take a few glorious hours to reach.
A unique and ever-changing natural paradise awaits visitors: from the dense mixed
woodlands of the inner archipelago to the barren rocky landscapes of the outer reaches.
But the archipelago also changes with the seasons: the long hot days of summer with their
many boats and holidaymakers contrast sharply with the winter months of ice, snow and
almost Arctic silence.
Everyone welcome all year round
Everyone is welcome to enjoy the archipelago, all year round. Visitors with little time
to spare should head for the nearest group of islands, Fjäderholmarna, just a
half-hour boat trip away. Here they will find scenes typical of the inner archipelago:
rocks and dense woodland areas plus bathing spots, genuine local handicrafts, a large
aquarium and any number of restaurants offering Swedish specialities, predominantly fish.
Those who feel so inclined can have a go at fishing from one of the many rocks the
self-same species as feature behind the aquarium's glass are also to be found swimming
free in the waters of the Baltic: perch, pike, Baltic herring, salmon and pikeperch.
A day trip to the outermost islands is an unforgettable part of any visit to Stockholm.
Sandhamn and Möja, to name but two destinations, are traditional
archipelago communities dominated by picturesque wooden houses. Some islanders still
survive on fishing, but tourism is the most important source of income during the summer
months. Restaurants and hotels ensure that visitors can extend their stay, whatever time
of year it may be.
The white archipelago fleet
Winter and summer alike, Stockholm's white archipelago fleet heads out to most of the
larger islands, departing from the quays opposite the Royal Palace. It won't cost the
earth to take a trip to any one of their many destinations like Vaxholm, an
idyllic small town barely an hour from Stockholm. Most of Waxholmbolaget's vessels offer
some form of refreshment on board. Indeed, some of the old steamers dating back to the
early 1900s have cosy mahogany dining rooms which offer gastronomic delights such as
"steamer beef" and "sooted Baltic herring" which can be enjoyed while
the islands' ever changing scenery glides by.
The most comfortable way of discovering the archipelago is on one of the painstakingly
restored old white steamers run by Strömma Kanalbolaget. The company offers a veritable
smörgåsbord of cruises everything from guided day trips to the most popular
destinations to fun-packed evening cruises with a musical theme. Cultural and gastronomic
cruises also feature in the company's programme.
Adventure
Those looking for adventure and those on a budget should definitely consider a
Waxholmbolaget inter-skerries card, as SEK 250 provides 16 days' worth of crossings
on any of the company's boats. Use the timetables and map included in the pack to draw up
your own itinerary. The archipelago's many simple campsites and youth hostels
mean that costs can be kept to a minimum. Food and other groceries are available from
shops at most of the boats' destinations.
Cosy accommodation and good food
Visitors with more comfortable lodgings in mind have a choice of 30 or so hotels and
boarding houses at Vaxholm, Ljusterö, Furusund, Utö, Sandhamn, Dalarö and Norrtälje,
to name but a few. Alternatively, why not head for the outermost islands and stay in a
cosy B&B? Landsort, for example, boasts an old pilot station with a lighthouse
dating back to the 1600s in barren yet magnificent surroundings. Renting a summer cottage
for a week or two in the archipelago is always a popular option, so be sure to book ahead.
Fresh local groceries mean that the archipelago can provide a variety of gastronomic
delights the sea air is said to work up an appetite and the islands' inns do their
best to satisfy visitors' hunger with delicious local specialities such as Baltic herring.
The better known restaurants include Utö Värdshus and Harö Krog, a
floating summer restaurant.
Nature, culture and glorious bathing
It would take a lifetime to really discover the archipelago, but the following rank
among its best known and most popular destinations. Arholma in the north is not
only a bathing paradise with its sandy beaches and rocks to swim from, but also offers
fantastic views from its 18th century lighthouse. There is also a youth hostel
and shop. Svartlöga boasts buildings dating back many centuries, not to mention
the world's smallest post office. Rödlöga, on the other hand, has no roads, only
paths winding their way through landscapes typical of the outer archipelago. Indeed, this
is as far as the normal boat services go. Möja is rich in archipelago culture,
with fishing and agriculture still very much a way of life. Here you will find restaurants
and a small youth hostel. Sandhamn is a typical little archipelago community and a
classic sailing centre with wonderful bathing spots, hotels and restaurants. Bullerö
and its surrounding islands make up a separate little archipelago out towards the open sea
and won an EU award in 1988 for its exceptional natural environment and cultural value. Utö
lies in the outermost reaches of the southern archipelago and boasts an 18th
century windmill and medieval mine among its attractions. The island's inn offers both
good food and accommodation. Fjärdlång is a nature reserve with a wide variety of
bird life, beautiful natural surroundings and children-friendly bathing spots everywhere,
not to mention a youth hostel, campsite and summer cottages for rent. Huvudskär's
barren rocks at the edge of the archipelago attract a wide variety of birds, and
accommodation is now available in the form of the old customs office.
Facts about the Stockholm archipelago:
- 24,000 islands and skerries
- 200 km long and up to 60 km wide
- 10,500 permanent inhabitants
- 35,000 summer cottages
- 150,000 leisure boats
- Land uplift of 4 mm per year
- The archipelago's rocky landscape was created when the glacier receded 9,000 years ago
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